Richard - keep in mind that tire design plays a huge role in the leverage effect that causes tubeless tires to burp under load. Sidewall height varies from tire to tire, as does true casing width. I would argue that the careful choice of tire plays as big (or bigger) role than rim width does. A tire with a comparatively low sidewall height, narrow casing, firm casing and firmer compound will maintain its shape and break traction before burping the sidewall. Taller sidewalls, thinner/wider casings and sticky compounds are more prone to pulling off a narrower rim. The taller the casing, the longer the lever. All that being said, I run a 28mm I9 EN wheelset and ride it hard, no problems. The weight savings of a 24mm rim are not worth the potential hassle of losing air even once IMO.

Sterling - an incredible photo essay. The 'slice-of-life' shots here really convey the experience, and the layout somehow even adds to it as well. PB posts a ton of quality photo spreads, but this one is exceptional and at the top of my list!

+1 to brule and levy - I've used a similar technique on the trail when I've either given away my last spare tube, or just forgotten to restock my pack. The method I've used though, is to tie 2 tight overhand knots in each end of the cut tube, so you end up with a long "hotdog" tube. It's a bit easier to get 2 tight knots this way. When you stuff it back in your tire, you end up with a small flatspot but it's good enough to get out and off the trail. And 98% of the riders I've told this to had never heard of it, and thought it was ingenious. It works amazingly well if you take the 2 mins to do it properly.

DIG & BUILD. SWEAT & SHRED. Legal or not, it's in our blood to never stop.